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Overview
Their relatively shallow root systems and long lives make blueberries very well-suited for container growing. For success, three critical factors should be kept in mind: air temperature, soil condition, and plant size.
Growing plants in containers results in the roots pushing against the edge of the pot. Buried deep in the soil, roots are somewhat insulated from cold, but the pot will transfer cold temperatures directly to the roots touching it. For this reason, most gardeners treat their growing zone as one lower than normal when selecting blueberries to grow in containers.
Most blueberry plants fail after planting due to improper soil pH. The soil in the pot should have a pH between 4.5 and 5.0 for your blueberries to thrive. If necessary, you can easily alter the pH by addition of special agents, such as ammonium sulfate or sulfur-coated urea.
Even though often referred to as blueberry bushes, standard blueberry plants reach the height of small trees, often 6 feet or more. A plant of this size can't be grown in a container-you need to select specially-bred dwarf varieties. For container cultivation, gardeners most often choose the Sunshine Blue, Patriot and Top Hat varieties of blueberry, though any of the blueberry bush varieties listed below can thrive in a proper container.
| Variety | zones | Ripens | Berry Size | Height | Yield |
| Bluegold |
4–7 |
4mid-season |
5medium-large |
3–5 feet |
1012 10–12 pounds |
| Bluetta |
4–7 |
1very early |
4medium |
3–5 feet |
1400 high |
| Legacy |
5–9 |
5late mid-season |
5medium-large |
4–5 feet |
1400 high |
| Little Giant |
4–7 |
4mid-season |
1very small |
4–5 feet |
1015 10–15 pounds |
| Northland |
3–7 |
3early mid-season |
4medium |
4–7 feet |
1520 15–20 pounds |
| O'Neal |
5–9 |
1very early |
6large |
4–5 feet |
1020 10–20 pounds |
| Patriot |
3–7 |
2early |
6large |
3–5 feet |
1015 10–15 pounds |
| Sunshine Blue |
6–10 |
4mid-season |
4medium |
3–4 feet |
0510 5–10 pounds |
| Top Hat |
4–7 |
4mid-season |
4medium |
2 feet |
0203 5–10 pounds |
Planting
- Select a container for your plants at least 20-24 inches in size, and well-draining; half-barrels make good blueberry gardens. Place the pot where it will remain before adding pH-adjusted potting soil. (It will become very heavy after adding the soil).
- Half-fill the container with potting soil. Choose a soil formulated for azaleas, rhododendrons, and plants requiring high acidity. The potting soil should also have a high concentration of organic material, such as peat moss. (One commonly-recommended recipe mixes three parts potting soil, one part perlite, and one part ¼-inch pine bark. Perlite is great for keeping the soil oxygenated, and the pine bark adds organic nutrients to the soil.)
- Remove the blueberry plant from its shipping container and gently loosen the roots.
- Set the blueberry plant onto the peat moss or potting soil so the top of the root ball is about 4 inches below the rim of the container. Pour the rest of the soil around the root ball until the soil is level with the top of the roots. Be sure to pack down the potting soil to eliminate air pockets.
- Water the blueberry plant to thoroughly moisten the soil. If the soil stays very wet, however, it can lead to root rot. Blueberries have specific water requirements-they need lots of water, but have shallow roots, so ensure the soil drains well. (Drip irrigation system works well for container planting; each container can be watered with a dripper or mister, controlling the watering by a timer or by hand.)
- Apply about 1-inch of sawdust mulch around the plant.
- Each plant should receive 1 ounce of 12-4-8 with 2% magnesium at planting. Add fertilizer lightly each spring and fall. Check the pH after fertilizing to ensure it remains in the 4.5-5.0 range.
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